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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2017 11:27 am
Posts: 77
I plan on doing a dod delete and cam this winter. And possibly a converter too.

Now ive done heads cam swaps before on many ls trucks and fbody cars. So I know my way around the LS

But reading about the l77, you have to pull the pan to plug the dod relief.
Which really adds a lot of work.

Eventually id also like a upgraded converter.


Im almost just considering just pulling the motor and leaving the transmission in the car ?

The extra time time for pulling the motor seems like it would equal out the time id spend getting the oil pan out, plus id be able to work on the engine on a stand and really torque everything down easily.

It would also be really easy to do the converter at this time too.


what do you guys think ?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2015 2:12 am
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Location: SE PA
It was a real bastard doing the cam with engine in the car, I didn't have to remove oil pan on mine but I can imagine.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 7:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 01, 2017 12:47 am
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Location: Appleton, WI
I'm looking to do the same thing. Along those lines, can the engine come out from the top or do you need to drop it out of the bottom?

Jim

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1968 Camaro -my first car.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 3:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2016 12:13 pm
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Location: Tampa, FL
If you need to change the torque converter then yanking the block would be easier since you need to strip the engine to the short block anyways.

Removing the oil pan is actually easy though. Zip off the two nuts common to the lower engine mounts and jack the engine up almost 2" from the oil pan using a piece of 2x4 wood under the pan. Slide wood blocks between the engine mount and frame and lower the engine onto them. Remove 4 to 5 bolts holding the oil cooler on the pan and drop the pan after removing the pan bolts. I did this in about 30 minutes.

Also, replacing the oil pump with the regular oil pressure pump you will not need to plug the oil pressure bypass valve in the pan since your oil pressures will not exceed the bypass valve pressure. I did remove my oil pan to replace the oil pickup and to facilitate centering the oil pump but did not replace the bypass valve in the pan.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 11:29 am 
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Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
I would stay with the DOD oil pump, which is both high pressure and volume. When I did it on my 06 Saab 9-7x 5.3 (aka: TrailBlazer), I replaced it with a regular pump and lost some pressure to the point where I get a CEL for low pressure when the oil starts to get at about 50% life left.

There's another thread about this here somewhere.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2018 2:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2017 11:27 am
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Ended up leaving the converter and just did the heads.

overall wasn't bad to do the heads in the car. I used arp bolts not studs for the heads.



The LSA oil pump I used is actually the same part number as the OEM caprice pump, I just wanted a new pump at 90k.

I also go the LSA chain .


I also plugged the relief in the pan, and during that I realized my engine mounts where shot.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2018 8:23 pm
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Location: Vancouver, WA
Maxspeed96ct wrote:
Ended up leaving the converter and just did the heads.

overall wasn't bad to do the heads in the car. I used arp bolts not studs for the heads.



The LSA oil pump I used is actually the same part number as the OEM caprice pump, I just wanted a new pump at 90k.

I also go the LSA chain .


I also plugged the relief in the pan, and during that I realized my engine mounts where shot.


I'm working on a dod delete right now and trying to figure out what oil pump to use and if I need to plug that pressure relief in the pan. I currently have the new melling stock replacement oil pump for the caprice. How is yours running with that pump and plugging that relief?

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2012 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1
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2007 Chevrolet Tahoe 4.8 (The wife's car)
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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2018 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2017 11:27 am
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jeaton48 wrote:
Maxspeed96ct wrote:
Ended up leaving the converter and just did the heads.

overall wasn't bad to do the heads in the car. I used arp bolts not studs for the heads.



The LSA oil pump I used is actually the same part number as the OEM caprice pump, I just wanted a new pump at 90k.

I also go the LSA chain .


I also plugged the relief in the pan, and during that I realized my engine mounts where shot.


I'm working on a dod delete right now and trying to figure out what oil pump to use and if I need to plug that pressure relief in the pan. I currently have the new melling stock replacement oil pump for the caprice. How is yours running with that pump and plugging that relief?



Great, about 3k miles on it now.

some get away with not plugging the relief, but its such a stupid part that could fail I think you'd be crazy to leave it in considering removing the oil pan is not difficult, and you need to remove it anyways if your changing the oil pump.


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