Sounds like a lifter failure...

Tech discussions on the L77 6.0L V8.
centex2013
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Location: Lake Belton, TX

Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by centex2013 »

As I'm only 45min north of TexasSpeed I will be calling them tomorrow to get the DOD delete and new cam. It may wind up being a valve issue, but since I have to take the head off I am going to take opportunity to install some go fast parts. :twisted:
Sanford
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by Sanford »

I thought #1, 4, 6 & 7 were the DOD cylinders. #3 would be normal lifter, but they also fail and you still have to pull heads off to replace it. I would do a compression test and/or a leak down test before you tear it down.
xcidmigs
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by xcidmigs »

I'm not aware that you can do a cam swap without dropping the oil pickup? not sure what you meant by the chain skipping deal?
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Mooseman
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by Mooseman »

You don't have to replace the oil pump for a cam swap. This video shows what I mean about that (although this one is done with the heads on but to pull the cam, it's the same)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVzgxh73o78" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Disregard about the chain skipping thing. I was thinking of another engine I work on a lot. As long as you line up the marks on the crank and cam gears, you're good.

Of course that's if you don't want or need to replace the pump. If you do replace the pump, do not use a standard LS pump. I did that mistake and my pressure was lower because of it, triggering a low pressure engine code when the oil is getting a bit towards the end of its life. The DoD pump is different because of its special requirements (not sure if it's higher pressure, volume or both). There is a separate bypass in the pan for the DoD system so I would use a new OEM pump unless there is one specific for DoD delete conversions.
2011 Caprice PPV, former RCMP test vehicle, never put into service
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Mooseman
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by Mooseman »

Just found an older thread regarding DoD delete and talks a lot about the pump. It is a higher volume.

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.ph ... r-camshaft" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
2011 Caprice PPV, former RCMP test vehicle, never put into service
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CrashTestDummy
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by CrashTestDummy »

Mooseman wrote:Just found an older thread regarding DoD delete and talks a lot about the pump. It is a higher volume.

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.ph ... r-camshaft" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Wow, a post from the Great Crazy Paul, no less!! For the n0obs to the list, Crazy Paul knew his parts, so the info in that post is probably pretty accurate.
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kevink
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by kevink »

You have to drop the pan and pickup if you want to install the better chain damper. The bolts that hold the damper on will not come out with the pump installed. If you install a 3 bolt cam, you will most likely want to remove the oil pump so you can line the dots up since you can't see the dot on the crank gear with the pump installed. If you're in there at all, though, you should really install the better damper, so the pump needs to come off anyway. Removing the pickup tube is a pain, but it's not impossible. All you have to do is slightly lower the oil pan. You don't have to take it completely off. Some people claim that they have unbolted the pickup without lowering the pan, but I don't see how that's possible. Why even try to torture yourself like that and not drop the pan?
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Mooseman
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by Mooseman »

Depends on the difficulty of dropping the pan. Probably helluva lot easier than on trucks. But don't you have to reseal it? Or is it a reusable gasket now?

And you CAN see the dot on the crank gear behind the pump as per the last video I posted.

As per my posts earlier, it can be done. Having done it on my own truck, I know it can be done because those are my own pictures.
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kevink
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by kevink »

Mooseman wrote:Depends on the difficulty of dropping the pan. Probably helluva lot easier than on trucks. But don't you have to reseal it? Or is it a reusable gasket now?

And you CAN see the dot on the crank gear behind the pump as per the last video I posted.

As per my posts earlier, it can be done.
Let me know how it went after you do your cam swap. Seeing the dot is not easy with the engine in the car. You need to pull the pump anyway to put the good damper on.
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lastcall190
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Re: Sounds like a lifter failure...

Post by lastcall190 »

kevink wrote:You have to drop the pan and pickup if you want to install the better chain damper. The bolts that hold the damper on will not come out with the pump installed. If you install a 3 bolt cam, you will most likely want to remove the oil pump so you can line the dots up since you can't see the dot on the crank gear with the pump installed. If you're in there at all, though, you should really install the better damper, so the pump needs to come off anyway. Removing the pickup tube is a pain, but it's not impossible. All you have to do is slightly lower the oil pan. You don't have to take it completely off. Some people claim that they have unbolted the pickup without lowering the pan, but I don't see how that's possible. Why even try to torture yourself like that and not drop the pan?
I agree with all stated. I can't imagine seeing the dot on the crank sprocket with the pump there. Maybe it's been too long but I seem to recall needing every bit of space afforded to me from removing components.

FWIW on my LS1 I simply loosened the oil pan bolts and it rested on the subframe. It's been years but IIRC it dropped maybe an inch? Was plenty of clearance for the pickup tube. It's really not that big of a deal. Just get a nice long set of locking needle nose or throw some fishing line around the bolt (or glob some RTV on a gear wrench, let it set up, and once removed, it should stick on the box end. Remove wrench/bolt monstrosity and should be all set...)

I definitely put some RTV on the front timing cover where it sealed to the front of the oil pan, but I don't recall doing anything besides cleaning the gasket mating areas of the rest of the pan (I think there was a gasket... again it's been a while).

As stated, OP keep us updated.

-J
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2008 CVPI

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