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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 2:31 am 
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Posts: 64
Location: Morgantown, WV
I am not really talking about on-going change intervals, just the first round. So was concerned about any crap that might be floating around in the factory fill of each component. I changed the oil and filter at about 1000 miles or less, but not the trans or diff.

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Jeff

1996 Caprice LT1 B4U - Sold - So long my friend - it was a great 17 years!
2001 Silverado LS 3500 DuraMax Dually 4x4
2004 Suburban 2500 6.0L 4x4
2013 Caprice PPV 6.0L


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:42 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:58 am
Posts: 397
Location: Texas Hill Country
Navy Lifer wrote:
9C1fanatic wrote:
moderate amount of idle time due to the aux battery cutting down on that some.


please elaborate


Yes what Crash Dummy said. I just meant that having the auxiliary battery (which no other type of car in our fleet has) allows us to shut the engine down much more frequently saving fuel but also oil life (for the purposes of this conversation) as idle time is factored into the GM oil life system. On all of our other cars, the engine runs 12 hours straight and cannot be shut down without the video camera system going down pretty soon after and no agency or officer for that matter wants to be without their camera in this day and age. Besides the gun its the most important piece of equipment now a days.

Just for the fun of it, Ill provide this data....

Our fleet which is mostly still Crown Victoria's average 5-8 MPG with the lower end of the range belonging to the more proactive officers and busier parts of town. This is about average for most urban departments with the CVPI. The Caprices are seeing 10-13 average MPG, all of which have the 6.0L. This is even better than the Impala which although we only have a small number of them, they are averaging 7-9 MPG. On average, the aux battery is saving 2-4 hours of idle time per shift which really starts to add up. With the aux battery, equipment stays on and there is no worry about the car failing to start so we are seeing behavior changes in the way the officers are using their vehicles in a positive way.

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Garner Ames



1975 Pontiac Grand Am L77 - 14.82 @ 92.89
1991 Chevrolet C1500 LO3/5 Speed - Too embarrassing to race!
1994 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 LT1 - 14.70 @ 93.79
2006 Pontiac GTO LS2 - 13.89 @ 102.85
2014 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 L77 - 13.60 @ 105.87
SS Roto-Fab CAI, Solo axle backs

2015 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 L77 (owned by the tax payer in all of us)

Solo axle backs


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:44 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:58 am
Posts: 397
Location: Texas Hill Country
Type on the Impala, that was supposed to say 7-10 MPG.

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Garner Ames



1975 Pontiac Grand Am L77 - 14.82 @ 92.89
1991 Chevrolet C1500 LO3/5 Speed - Too embarrassing to race!
1994 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 LT1 - 14.70 @ 93.79
2006 Pontiac GTO LS2 - 13.89 @ 102.85
2014 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 L77 - 13.60 @ 105.87
SS Roto-Fab CAI, Solo axle backs

2015 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 L77 (owned by the tax payer in all of us)

Solo axle backs


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 7:02 am 
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Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2014 2:58 am
Posts: 397
Location: Texas Hill Country
I believe the manual for the 2014 Caprice PPV says something like 100,000 mile interval for the transmission, 50,000 mile interval for severe use such as police, commercial, racing etc. I'm sticking with 50,000 for the same reasons mentioned by other members in this thread. I just did my 2006 GTO trans service at 50,000 which also calls for Dexron VI and everything still looked really good but the color of the fluid was just starting to turn.

On the diffs, the manual says something like 97,500 miles for normal service and 47,500 for severe service such as police, commercial, racing use etc...I think these figures were originally in kilometers which might explain he odd numbers.

That being said, my patrol car has 12,500 miles already has a very slight whine coming from the diff only when doing very sharp u turns which to me would like the clutches. Keep in mind the vehicle had seen triple digit speeds far more often that most normal vehicles ever would in their whole life time. The fluid has not been changed yet but I'm inclined to do it on my own dime just to see how it looks and if it changes anything. The limited slip still seems to work as strong as when new. I remember reading on Camaro 5 forum about people doing fluid changes on new diffs due to the fluid in the diff being contaminated possibly due to the diffs break in process. They were saying when they drained it, the fluid was coming out looking like melted silver.

I'm going to change the fluid soon and if I notice anything unusual Ill report it here. If the fluid looks pretty bad, I will go ahead and change it on my personal car as well pretty quick. In that case Ill probably do the diff around every 25,000-30,000 miles like I do on the GTO which is what it recommends. If the fluid looks pretty good still, I may stick to the 50,000 mile interval.

If your car was a 2011 or even 2012, I would also do the coolant but if its newer you should be fine. I have a hard time leaving it in for the full 5 years after some things I saw with Dexcool back in the 1990s.

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Garner Ames



1975 Pontiac Grand Am L77 - 14.82 @ 92.89
1991 Chevrolet C1500 LO3/5 Speed - Too embarrassing to race!
1994 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 LT1 - 14.70 @ 93.79
2006 Pontiac GTO LS2 - 13.89 @ 102.85
2014 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 L77 - 13.60 @ 105.87
SS Roto-Fab CAI, Solo axle backs

2015 Chevrolet Caprice 9C1 L77 (owned by the tax payer in all of us)

Solo axle backs


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2015 2:12 am
Posts: 562
Location: SE PA
Anyone have the correct coolant replacement procedure?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 4:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:47 pm
Posts: 388
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
I'm considering changing coolant on my 2011 as well. Even with 6K miles, I noticed it was low, and rather than topping off, I might just change it next spring. Even with Dexcool's supposed extended life (which I don't trust), I think 5 years is a good interval for that type of coolant. It believe coolant is more age sensitive than miles sensitive. I used to do the green coolant and flush every 2-3 years no matter what miles. Or annually if if looked nasty and/or heat output was affected.

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Tom (AKA: Storm)
2011 Caprice 9C3: L77, 7K miles, first-owner, purchased July 2011.
1995 Caprice 9C1: LT1, 176K miles, summer car.
1995 Impala SS: LT1, 20K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 61K miles.
1995 Caprice Wagon: LT1, 128K miles. Rust In Pieces
1994 Caprice 9C1: LT1, 101K miles, winter car.
1969 Chevy C30: 383ci stroker, 4L80E, rollback car hauler.
1972 Chrysler Newport: 400ci big block, 27K miles, 2-door hardtop.
1969 Dodge Charger: 383ci big block.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:31 pm
Posts: 1352
Location: Pearland, Texas
For a car that's been sitting around, but still essentially 'new', about all I'd change after the oil and gas, which you've done, would be to at least replace the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. It's been sitting there absorbing water, so getting the reservoir fluid changed will only help the braking system.

While it's probably better to bleed the brakes, which is much more involved, I'd at least do this. I've had pretty good luck with our cars that sit a long time doing just this.

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Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2010 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1996 BBB Impala SS (11-second DD)
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
And some others
Do YOU have my SPID?


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 2:29 am 
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Joined: Tue May 05, 2015 3:31 am
Posts: 64
Location: Morgantown, WV
CrashTestDummy wrote:
For a car that's been sitting around, but still essentially 'new', about all I'd change after the oil and gas, which you've done, would be to at least replace the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. It's been sitting there absorbing water, so getting the reservoir fluid changed will only help the braking system.

While it's probably better to bleed the brakes, which is much more involved, I'd at least do this. I've had pretty good luck with our cars that sit a long time doing just this.

Good point, brake fluid never crossed my mind. I think I will take care of that in the next week or so. Thanks for the tip!

So no one thinks there is any gunk floating around in the factory-fill fluids, like casting sand, or metal chips that may have been knocked off freshly cast hard parts, or anything like that? Don't get me wrong, if no one thinks it's an issue I'm good with that!

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Jeff

1996 Caprice LT1 B4U - Sold - So long my friend - it was a great 17 years!
2001 Silverado LS 3500 DuraMax Dually 4x4
2004 Suburban 2500 6.0L 4x4
2013 Caprice PPV 6.0L


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 1:35 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2016 4:50 am
Posts: 8
I changed rearend and transmission at 10K.
Owners manual intervals are far greater but personal preference and past experience wont let me wait that long.
Have just over 31K right now and changed them again this week. I always go to the dealer to change the transmission fluid and due to the friction modifier catch I have them do the rearend as well as I don't want to screw it up.
Since the Caprice does not have a transmission dipstick (like the pickups) which allows you to check the color of the transmission fluid you are kind of blind to the visual condition of it.
The guy at the dealer said they probably didn't put a trans dipstick because there isn't enough room like in the trucks - which does make sense but probably BS.
For most of my vehicles in the past I like to use the color of the transmission fluid as a little bit of a guide (once again personal preference).
If transmission fluid isn't super bright red - I get nervous... so when I cant see the color of it... I am nervous all the time lol


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 14, 2015 2:12 am
Posts: 562
Location: SE PA
wow I thought I was being paranoid in changing out my trans fluid at 21K miles but I also had the excuse that I wanted to install the Camaro pan with deeper sump filter. The guy who told you they didn't put on a dipstick due to room is nuts there clearly is plenty and one of the favorite G8 mods is to install a universal version which probably costs the same as what you are paying for the dealer to change yours. Did they actually take you pan off with this or just drain and refill, because when I drained I only got about a gallon out then the pan drop was several quarts more, I think over 7 to refill.
Still have not done the rear since I'm considering the upgrade on that, and the coolant is overdue I have the stuff sitting in a box for my next day off with nothing to do.


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