wheel studs

[Navy Lifer]

From browsing G8 boards, one comment was the cost of replacement stock wheel studs--the GM part that is in the catalog for G8 & PPV, at any rate.

Some of my future plans may call for longer studs, and I've not delved into that yet, but when I do figure it out, I'll update this thread.

Anyway, here's the info I can provide:

The OE wheel stud is PN 92171058 - as used on both G8 & PPV. It is sourced from Australia (if packaging means anything), and list price at the local dealer is a pricey $17.90--yes, each!

The "generic" wheel stud with the exact same specs, as used on Gen5 Camaro and many other GM vehicles, is PN 11588811, with a list price at the local dealer of $3.49 each.

The third option is the wheel stud used on the ZL1 Camaro (did not check for use on any other application), PN 9598542, with a list price at the local dealer of $3.96 each--the one difference with this stud is that the head is "clipped" - it has part of the head cut away, which is typically for some sort of clearance situation.

Each of you may have a different parts source or deal, and these prices are more than likely not what you would typically pay. That said, what I wanted to point out is that as far as fit/form/function, these 3 wheel studs are identical--same knurl diameter, same head thickness, same overall length, same thread cutback, etc.

As mentioned, I have not yet begun a search for longer studs--the answer may already be in one of the G8 boards, as I've just not looked for it yet. That said, my thinking is to send ARP a stock stud and find out what it will cost for them to be duplicated but with a length increase and full threads rather than the cutback. This has ramifications for future wheel fitment efforts that may include using a spacer to get the right "look" by playing with the wheel/tire position in relation to the wheel openings on the body.

If anyone has additional information to contribute that fills in on this discussion, please weigh-in!

Pictures:

[Crazy Paul]

Stock Stud:
Thread size M14 x 1.5
Length underhead to first usable thread 45mm
Length underhead to extremity 58mm
Knurl diameter 15.70mm
Shoulder length 13.40mm

Check out Dorman 610-490
Knurl Dia 15.7
Length 70 (but the thread goes further towards the end which is a bonus)
Shoulder length 12.2 (1.2mm shorter than stock, unsure if that will be an issue)

[Navy Lifer]

In the interest of research, I've gathered up 3 possible wheel studs that could be used in place of the OE studs to provide greater thread "reach", in the event someone has a wheel/spacer combination calling for more threads to provide adequate wheel lug nut thread contact (compared to stock studs).

The picture shows five studs in order, left to right:



OE 11588811 - underhead to end of threads ~1.75"
Dorman 610-490 - underhead to end of threads ~2.5" or 63.5mm (69.7mm to end of stud)
Dorman 610-509 - underhead to end of threads ~2.7" or 68.6mm (73.4mm to end of stud)
Dorman 610-530 - underhead to end of threads ~2.92" or 74.2mm (78 mm to end of stud)
OE 9598542 - same as 11588811

The knurl diameters on the 3 Dorman studs are all within .004" of the OE stud (to the larger side) so there should be little concern about any of them properly fitting a PPV hub flange.

Cost is an interesting study--using Rock Auto information, the cost of each Dorman stud is:

610-490: $5.67/10 ($5.89 individually)
610-509: $4.00
610-530: $1.53

All 3 Dorman studs are priced the same at O'Reilly Auto Parts - $4.99 each

Of note, in comparing the dimensions, it does appear that the 610-490 stud, which provides an additional 3/4" (19mm) of thread length over the stock stud and SHOULD be more than adequate for nearly any spacer setup imaginable--it should fit in place of an OE stud with no issues as far as shoulder length and/or interference with the brake rotor stud hole sizing.

Otherwise, this is minutiae that no one here may really care about, and I realize no one asked--just sharing....!

[Crazy Paul]

Thanks Bill.

[elc32955]

Bill, I'm shuddering at contemplating what wheels you're going to install that need mondo longer studs. Should give it a whole new stance...

[v8suprcapric]

Anybody know if there's detailed instructions on installing new studs for the front and rear? My searches come up with everything from "it's easy just pound out with a hammer and wrench the new ones in" to "you've got to pull the whole hub and have them pressed in". Or if anyone has actually done this, what's the real deal on what's involved?

[smwalker]

Anybody know if there's detailed instructions on installing new studs for the front and rear? My searches come up with everything from "it's easy just pound out with a hammer and wrench the new ones in" to "you've got to pull the whole hub and have them pressed in". Or if anyone has actually done this, what's the real deal on what's involved?

Kind of true on both statements. Looks the front you can do on the car but the rears you have to remove from the driveshaft:

For the front I see two procedures in the service manual. They only differ by what tool the use. One uses a ball joint press and the other it's just called a 4150-c press tool.

Remember if these images disappear you can always look them up in the online service manual linked to in this Thread - Service Manual

And yea smacking them out with a hammer I have seen done. BUt of course not the reccomended way especially if corrosion is an issue. Either way on the rears you will have to remove the hub and need a hub puller. Think you can probably rent these tools at the local parts store.

Front:



Rear: