Rear side window trims falling off
Re: Rear side window trims falling off
Is this trim still not available by the piece?
Re: Rear side window trims falling off
I had to have my window replaced last July because it wasn't available separately.
2011 9C1
2005 GTO
2005 GTO
Re: Rear side window trims falling off
Seems like a really bad deal since so many cars will now be out of the basic warranty not sure too many guys will want to be doing that job themselves either. I thought i saw somewhere a person claimed they had theirs all painted body color but i can't find that now?
Re: Rear side window trims falling off
I finally got mine fixed under warranty. Mine is a 2011, but my warranty started the day I bought it, which was February of 2013. I got all 6 of my keys replaced as well.
Re: Rear side window trims falling off
Did they show you the total cost even though its a warranty job? I see the price of the 2 windows themselves is still in the $300 range and wonder what they get for installation?
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Re: Rear side window trims falling off
I had this problem with my WM
I asked about a fix, and was told, if I had the metal part, a whole tube of Cyanoacrilate glue (super glue) would fix.
Or a generous application of Elmers or some such. It's just glued on, so if it comes loose or falls right off, just glue it back on
I asked about a fix, and was told, if I had the metal part, a whole tube of Cyanoacrilate glue (super glue) would fix.
Or a generous application of Elmers or some such. It's just glued on, so if it comes loose or falls right off, just glue it back on
Re: Rear side window trims falling off
My passenger side trim recently came loose so I took it the rest of the way off and am now looking for the best adhesive to re-secure. Issue I am having is I do not know what kind of rubber we have there.
What I have read is most modern cars use EPDM rubber. With that assumption I contacted the folks at Permabond and they recommended a Toughened Acrylic Adhesive because a superglue type product will not fill the gap that seems to be present when the molding is in place.
https://www.permabond.com/wp-content/up ... 10_TDS.pdf
------------Permabond Exchange---------------
Project description: Need to bond a stainless steel automotive molding to what I think is EPDM rubber window surround. Needs to be able to fill a bit of a gap though between the two materials. Saw Permabond 105 but I think it will be to thin for the gap? Any other recommendations?
If the gap is greater than 0.004" (0.1mm) the 105 may not be ideal.
See https://www.permabond.com/materials_bon ... bond-epdm/
The TA4610 may be a better choice but use care to only get it inside the bond area as it can look messy
Both products can be sourced at www.krayden.com
-----------------------------------------------------
Update on this:
Asked on FB and a guy mentions at his work they use an adhesive called E6000. Nice thing was it is easily available for like $5.00 at the Home Depot, Lowes and even craft stores carry it as it is big in those circles. Specs say good up to 180 Degrees so that should be fine for the external application. Grinded off the old adhesive on the rubber and the stainless steel, cleaned off everything with alcohol and built up some adhesive on both surfaces and pressed it in place then taped it in place for about 2 days. Week later still holding strong. Will Update if it ever comes loose!!
This is the old adhesive that was under the molding, you can see how thick it was so there is quite a gap to cover with the new stuff. Can also see it's no wonder they come loose not a lot of surface area holding it on. They were probably worried about extra oozing our and causing clean up time on the line.
I used a sanding drum on the end of a dremel tool to remove the old adhesive. It turns white once you grind and once you hit the rubber it's black again so you know when to stop. Came off very easy.
Final look before new adhesive applied - Only clean off with alcohol, not acetone or lacquer thinner as that may melt the rubber smooth lowering adhesion.
What I have read is most modern cars use EPDM rubber. With that assumption I contacted the folks at Permabond and they recommended a Toughened Acrylic Adhesive because a superglue type product will not fill the gap that seems to be present when the molding is in place.
https://www.permabond.com/wp-content/up ... 10_TDS.pdf
------------Permabond Exchange---------------
Project description: Need to bond a stainless steel automotive molding to what I think is EPDM rubber window surround. Needs to be able to fill a bit of a gap though between the two materials. Saw Permabond 105 but I think it will be to thin for the gap? Any other recommendations?
If the gap is greater than 0.004" (0.1mm) the 105 may not be ideal.
See https://www.permabond.com/materials_bon ... bond-epdm/
The TA4610 may be a better choice but use care to only get it inside the bond area as it can look messy
Both products can be sourced at www.krayden.com
-----------------------------------------------------
Update on this:
Asked on FB and a guy mentions at his work they use an adhesive called E6000. Nice thing was it is easily available for like $5.00 at the Home Depot, Lowes and even craft stores carry it as it is big in those circles. Specs say good up to 180 Degrees so that should be fine for the external application. Grinded off the old adhesive on the rubber and the stainless steel, cleaned off everything with alcohol and built up some adhesive on both surfaces and pressed it in place then taped it in place for about 2 days. Week later still holding strong. Will Update if it ever comes loose!!
This is the old adhesive that was under the molding, you can see how thick it was so there is quite a gap to cover with the new stuff. Can also see it's no wonder they come loose not a lot of surface area holding it on. They were probably worried about extra oozing our and causing clean up time on the line.
I used a sanding drum on the end of a dremel tool to remove the old adhesive. It turns white once you grind and once you hit the rubber it's black again so you know when to stop. Came off very easy.
Final look before new adhesive applied - Only clean off with alcohol, not acetone or lacquer thinner as that may melt the rubber smooth lowering adhesion.