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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:04 am
Posts: 31
Good morning guys,

So when I bought the car the rear windows not working wasn't a surprise because every PPV I've ever driven had them disabled,but usually they operate from the driver's side door. I've gone through all the areas I've seen them disabled at in the past but cannot for the life of me figure out why I cannot get them to work. To clarify they do not work from the driver's controls or from the rear doors controls. I've checked the switches at the drivers door and the rear doors and they all seem to be in good working order, I've checked the wiring at all the connections and at the areas it comes through the doors and cannot find anything wrong there, and I've checked the fuses under the drivers side dash. The window motor and window controls fuses are functioning properly because when I remove them I lose functionality to all windows. I've gone under the front passenger seat and switched the plug from the disconnect to the connect as shown by a few different people and still nothing. Can someone point me in another direction to check for things that have been disconnected or cut anywhere? Are there any fuse boxes in the main engine compartment that may have been removed or am I going to get the BCM flashed by a dealer? :( which I'm really trying to avoid like the plague they are.

Thanks for any help guys


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:44 am
Posts: 1151
Location: Azusa,CA
Post what year you have as they changed from 11-13 to 14+

ANd you have the window lock disengaged on the main switch correct? (have to ask)

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:28 pm 
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Sorry, I put the year in the thread title and forgot to put it in the body. It's a 2011. I'm assuming you mean the lock on the driver door controls, yeap flipped that on and off multiple times to see if it was stuck in the locked position.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:44 am
Posts: 1151
Location: Azusa,CA
Oops my bad, missed that title.

So since it was an 11 there is nothing in the BCM to do to control them. You will have to get busy with a test light or mutimeter to see if voltage is present at the switches and at the motors. Quite possible with the motors not working for 6 years they are just rusted up. But the voltage will tell you the story. Another thing you may try is disconnecting the windows from the regulators. I have also seen a window so stuck from a build up of dirt it was just getting tightly held in place by the weatherstripping. The motor could not overcome the bond.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 8:19 pm 
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Ok thanks, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't a stupid easy fix that I should check before I started tearing into the wiring and seeing what has power and all that jazz. Thanks for the help


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:04 am
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I saw your thread and I did check there as best as I could but the wiring harness was strung pretty tightly. I do plan on pulling it all back apart when I have a free weekend and start checking for power and continuity to see where the problem lies.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 12:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2014 3:45 am
Posts: 82
Location: Easton Ct
its not too bad you should be able to detach the boot from the cowl side without much difficulty, there will be a plug inside the cowl, you can unplug the door harness there and that will give you enough play to inspect the wires inside the boot


good luck


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 3:45 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 4:35 am
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Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
You could try connecting the wire that enables the rear switches. Push the passenger seat forward and your see an access cut out in the rubber floor cover. You'll see a blue wire with an empty connector connected to it. remove that and connect it to the real one with the wire. Did it on my '11 9c1 and rear switches worked.

Worth a shot.

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2011 Caprice PPV, 1 of possibly 4 in Canada!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2015 8:31 pm
Posts: 1374
Location: Pearland, Texas
^^This! It's what fixed our windows.

Here: http://www.newcaprice.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1427&hilit=rear+windows&start=10#p12574

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Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas
2012 Caprice 9C1
1992 B4C 1LE Camaro
2010 Tahoe PPV (her car)
1995 DGGM Impala SS
1996 BBB Impala SS (11-second DD)
1985 Firebird - 310 LS1 C Prepared autocross car.
And some others
Do YOU have my SPID?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:04 am
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Mooseman wrote:
You could try connecting the wire that enables the rear switches. Push the passenger seat forward and your see an access cut out in the rubber floor cover. You'll see a blue wire with an empty connector connected to it. remove that and connect it to the real one with the wire. Did it on my '11 9c1 and rear switches worked.

Worth a shot.



Yeap, I already did that with no luck. Windows are still not functioning. My next step is to do a continuity test from the front switch to the window motor, and to see if I've got power to the rear switches and window motor. Once I do that I'll figure out where to go from there.


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