How To - Build repeater wire connectors

Electronic systems, stereo and Holden iQ, wiring, it all goes here....
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smwalker
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:44 am
Location: Azusa,CA

How To - Build repeater wire connectors

Post by smwalker »

The following is the info you need to build the connectors for the repeaters. If you have the Australian WM/WN repeaters or the Chinese Park Avenue repeaters these connectors will work for both.

Tools:
Terminal crimper capable of 24-18 AWG crimps
Wire stripper for 24-18 AWG wires
Razor Blade

Parts: (Links to mouser parts but other suppliers maybe cheaper, check ebay as well)
Connector body - Tyco - 1-967644-1 - Connector - MQS BU-GEH EDS SW2P
Terminal - Tyco - 965906-1 - Terminal - MQSSLD 0.5-0.8,CuNiSi, Sn,INS CRIMP
Wire seal - Tyco - 967067-1 - WIRE SEAL 24-18AWG Green MQS SGL


Wire: Since you are just powering led lights you do not need all that big of wire. I find 22 AWG is good just because it is easier to work with and has some strength built into it. Whereas if you get down into 24 or 26 AWG it just seems flimsy. I buy it from an electronics store that sells it from a 1000 foot box. It is 2 conductor stranded (not solid) 22 AWG wire in a non shielded sheath. I think this wire is common for the alarm industry. Length of the wire, well better get about 10 feet per side just to be safe. Where the best place to connect them is still up for debate.

Building:
Strip back about 3/4 of an inch from the outer sheath of the 2 conductor wire using a razor blade (be careful do not go too deep and damage the wire).
Strip back 1/8 of an inch from each wire exposing the wire using your wire strippers.
Slip on your two wire seals with the long flat part pointing towards the end of the wires.
Do a partial crimp of the terminal on to the wire (if possible) and keep the back long arms (that will hold the wire seal) out of the crimping jaws.

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Once the wire is partially secured move the wire seal up into position in the area of the two still open back arms.
Crimp the arms on to the wire seal and crimp the remainder of the wire not crimped before.

Make sure the green secondary terminal lock is in the unlocked position. They come unlocked from the factory but may have locked along the way.
Unlocked:
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Insert the crimped terminals into the connector body. There are numbers on the back of the connector. Your positive wire will go in cavity 2 and the ground will go in cavity 1.

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Insert them till you feel a click on each one then close the green secondary lock on the front of the connector.

IF you want you can put some shrink tubing on the cut end of the sheathing to water seal it and help with supporting the wire as it will bend there most likely.

Done.

As always I bought extras of all this stuff if you want me to make up a set of wires for you let me know.
Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White
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