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 Post subject: Driver's Door Lock Issue
PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 11:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 4:47 pm
Posts: 36
Alright so I have a new issue and wanted to bounce some ideas off of you all.

My drivers side door lock will not lock/unlock with remote or door panel and it does not lock when in drive or at speed. All other door locks function as expected, liking with remote, while driving, and from the drivers door panel. The drivers door panel functions in every way except to actuate the drivers door lock (mirrors, windows, and other locks function).

I have replaced the lock actuator, checked the relays and fuses in the kick panel fuse box.

Any ideas as to what is causing the issue?

My remaining thoughts are; does the actuator need some sort of re learn? Is it possible I "fried" the replacement actuator during install? Can someone provide the wiring schematic for the drivers side actuator/panel?

Let me know what you all think, thanks!

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2011 9c1

"It's got a cop motor, a 364-cubic-inch plant. It's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks..."


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:41 am 
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Location: Azusa,CA
You can manually lock it with the manual dial at the door handle right? You said door panel I am guessing you meant the switch on the door panel?

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 3:34 am 
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Good question. I used to be able to unlock from external door handle, I cannot anymore. I was never able to lock from exterior door handle (the key just spins if you turn it back).

I can't lock using the "push button" above the interior door handle unless the door is shut or I manually "close" the latches before attempting.

I now have to lock the door manually from the inside and then climb out through the passenger door.

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2011 9c1

"It's got a cop motor, a 364-cubic-inch plant. It's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks..."


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 4:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:44 am
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Location: Azusa,CA
Wow, you got a lot going on there!

I think first you may have a broken wire in the door boot for the drivers door. We have seen this a few times on the board, just a matter of luck which wires break. Look at the Red/Brown or Green/White wire as those are the one that alternate the Power and ground to the door lock motor from the relay. For the drivers door there are seperate relays for Lock and Unlock so that neither work in your case when all the other doors at least lock tells me a break in the wire is the most likely culprit. Best way to test is a test light on the connector that goes to the door latch. If you have power and ground on those two wires mentioned above (I bet you wont) then that means your motor was bad and you new actuator motor was bad (not likely).

Taking off the boot is pretty easy in the door jamb. The door side is just plain rubber with a channel in it. Just pull it out. On the body side get a plastic wedge tool and pop out the plastic base holding the rubber boot. Should see your broken wire right in that area. Maybe disconnect it inside the door as much as you can to give it some slack.

The spinning key is a locksmith issue, unrelated to the lock and unlock issue.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:05 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 29, 2017 4:47 pm
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Steve you were 100% right. No power going to that door lock/unlock as the wires were cut in the door.

I repaired to the best of my ability given my time constraints and everything is working fine now.


(Edited to resize photo and box the breaks, one additional wire was slice as well that can't be seen)


Attachments:
IMG_0539.PNG
IMG_0539.PNG [ 543.93 KiB | Viewed 133 times ]

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2011 9c1

"It's got a cop motor, a 364-cubic-inch plant. It's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks..."


Last edited by thirdgenfarmer on Mon Sep 04, 2017 4:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Location: Azusa,CA
Nice, glad you found it. How many miles on your car? Think this is going to be a common problem with all of us at some point. I would especially say cars that were in service. I mean imagine all those door opening and closings for writing tickets.

Was your old actuator working except for the door locks? I would say put it up for sale since many guys are facing the radio won't turn off issue they would try a know working part to save a few bucks at the GM parts counter.

IF you were having the radio wont turn off issue as well let me know I would like to get your old actuator for testing.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 12:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2014 3:45 am
Posts: 80
Location: Easton Ct
i had the same issue 2012 70, 000 miles


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 1:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:44 am
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Location: Azusa,CA
sardillim Pic:

Image

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 4:08 am 
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As far as I know my lock actuator was working fine and the culprit was the wiring.

2011 Caprice with just under 80k miles, and according to Carfax only 2500 miles of police service!

The car was actuall registered to the Michigan State Police and a part of me wonders if it was a test model, but have no way of knowing that.

What is this radio issue you speak of, I've not heard too much about it before?

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2011 9c1

"It's got a cop motor, a 364-cubic-inch plant. It's got cop tires, cop suspension, cop shocks..."


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 4:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:44 am
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Location: Azusa,CA
The main problem with the latches seem to be when you turn off the car and take out your key you know how the radio stays on till you open the door then it shuts off? Well some folks open the door and the radio stays on, wont shut off. There is a micro switch in there that sends a ground the the BCM to command everything off. My theory was that micro switch was wearing out (I have seen the same thing on VW's before) and not working. I have gotten one test latch from someone that replaced his and did testing and found the micro switch to be in good working order. Of course I dissected it so I ruined it in the process.

Then talking with another board member here who was experiencing the same issue he took his latch out and blew it out and got it back to working like 75% of the time when he was at zero before. My theory now is the process of him disconnecting the connector and re plugging it back in was actually the cure. Have a feeling the pins in the connector are being corroded. So I am looking for people with the problem to experiment with cleaning the connectors to see if that solves their problem. Home depot sells CRC 2-26 electrical parts cleaner/lubricant that can help with these issues. Want them to try that stuff. IF that does not work then a psychical cleaning of the pins with a dremel tool or something wold be the next step. If either did not work then I would say it is the micro switch.

I found a replacement for those as well but they do not fit like the originals so still trying to source the original micro switch if I can. They were made by a company called "Cherry' and that has since been bought out by what sounds like a German conglomerate.

SO far the motors for our door locks that are in our latches have held up pretty good but that seems to be the reason they get replaced the most on the G8 boards. Hell that could even be the connector issue as well. I Might want to alert those guys.

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Steve Walker
Azusa, CA
'11 PPV 9C3 Huron White


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