gregc wrote:Ok, I just saw your other post about the map lights not being connected. The mic connector is supposed to be near that 4 pin map light plug. If it was cut, then you should start looking there. If you have RPO 6C7, then it's a Kerr Industries installed aux-dome light. I have a 9C1 also and the mic plug is connected to the map light harness. I don't have the auxiliary dome light, however.
Good info Greg and I do not have 6C7 so the installer likely cut the wire and it is there. I did not think it was a Kerr install as it is a Sound Off dual white/red LED dome light and the splicing is sloppy. I have never been a fan of the sloppy installs from Defender Supply, but they have got better. Their dealership is the best and I have bought four cars from them and will continue to buy from them.
Anyway, I did not have a chance to cut the wiring to look for it there as I got home after dark, so it will likely not be until Wednesday before I can dig into it. I spent the day at the off road park four wheeling in the Suburban.
gregc wrote:Ok, I just saw your other post about the map lights not being connected. The mic connector is supposed to be near that 4 pin map light plug. If it was cut, then you should start looking there. If you have RPO 6C7, then it's a Kerr Industries installed aux-dome light. I have a 9C1 also and the mic plug is connected to the map light harness. I don't have the auxiliary dome light, however.
Good info Greg and I do not have 6C7 so the installer likely cut the wire and it is there. I did not think it was a Kerr install as it is a Sound Off dual white/red LED dome light and the splicing is sloppy. I have never been a fan of the sloppy installs from Defender Supply, but they have got better. Their dealership is the best and I have bought four cars from them and will continue to buy from them.
Anyway, I did not have a chance to cut the wiring to look for it there as I got home after dark, so it will likely not be until Wednesday before I can dig into it. I spent the day at the off road park four wheeling in the Suburban.
I just looked at my Helms manual and the mic signal wire is gray/black and the microphone return wire is pink and black. The microphone signal wire on the actual microphone is dk blue and the return wire is pink and black. Hope this helps.
So after figuring out what the original police equipment installed did wrong with their hacked up wiring I was able to get the microphone hooked up and working. The aux dome light was not factory so it was added by the installer and they cut the microphone wire to get a ground. Stupid as all they should have done is tapped into the metal frame like I did to fix it. They also tapped into the factory dome light power for the aux dome light. Left the front dome wire cut so that did not work, but only the aux dome. So I hooked the factory dome light back up and ran the aux dome to the passenger spot light power plug I pictured before. This way the aux dome light will work all the time and not auto shut off with the key off. Yes you have to be careful not to leave it on, but it is a LED light so it will not drain allot.
So the microphone main cable was cut for the dome light and the colours were not exactly as gregc posted, but it was a great help and thanks. The mic signal wire is gray/black and the microphone return wire is a silver bare wire that is grounded. I used a plug from a PC mother board fan and cut some of the plastic off to make it work. I did not want to cut the plug on the mic if I ever found the right plug for the wire loom. Got it all hooked up and tested out great, so I now have hands free cell phone from my iPhone.
Pictures to show how I fixed it.
First picture shows how sloppy the wiring was and how they hacked into the factory dome and mic wires. You can see the gray/black wire not connected to anything, but the bare wires is being used as a ground.
Last picture shows how I grounded the dome light by tapping a a screw in the cross bar of the roof. Also the plug I used from a PC and yes I wrapped it in electrical tape to shield it.
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This is how I reran the aux dome light wiring using power from the spot light plug. I used a small AMP pin to tap into the plug as I did not want to cut it out (solder to hold the pin). Wrapped it in electrical tap and ran it behind the headliner.
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K9Vic wrote:This is how I reran the aux dome light wiring using power from the spot light plug. I used a small AMP pin to tap into the plug as I did not want to cut it out (solder to hold the pin). Wrapped it in electrical tap and ran it behind the headliner.
My Radio/HVAC, which thought it still was in Australia at first, (AM radio tuning in 9 kHz increments instead of the 10 in US) has been behaving itself for a long time. However, this morning I fire up the car for work and I find that the HVAC temp setting is suddenly reading in Celsius! Couldn't figure out on the fly how to correct it, but haven't been in the manual. Any ideas?
Steve Robin
Minneapolis, MN
'11 PPV 9C3 Phantom Black Metallic
My Radio/HVAC, which thought it still was in Australia at first, (AM radio tuning in 9 kHz increments instead of the 10 in US) has been behaving itself for a long time. However, this morning I fire up the car for work and I find that the HVAC temp setting is suddenly reading in Celsius! Couldn't figure out on the fly how to correct it, but haven't been in the manual. Any ideas?
For the G8, it is done through the left side steering wheel controls and the DIC. Press the lower button to change the DIC screen to UNITS I believe where you can choose between METRIC and ENGLISH. This will change MPH to KPH on the instrument panel and the degrees F to C on the radio.
You're right about that, BlackGTS, that's how you do it, but the strange thing yesterday was that the HVAC was Celsius while the rest of the dash was still reading in english! The function on the left wheel button only changes everything at once.
In any event, when I got in the car yesterday afternoon, the HVAC was back in fahrenheit. Bizarre.
Steve Robin
Minneapolis, MN
'11 PPV 9C3 Phantom Black Metallic
The IQ screens on these cars go on walkabout, every few months. You have to go through a certain amount of cycling the ignition on and off, before the damn thing will re-boot. I think it is voltage related, because I generally leave a battery tender on it, and go months without triggering.
Some one told me that the software is like Windows 98, or something. Very bizarre when it happens on my car, the HVAC stuff doesn't function, and it re-boots when it feels like it!
Bob Dannelley
2011 Alto Gray 9C3 Caprice PPV-Maggie-11.64@119.68-Sold!
1995 DCM Impala SS-409-Stroker!-11.83@115
2014 Silver Ice LTZ Silverado Crewcab 4X4
2007 Black Z51 M6-Corvette Coupe
I'll second that. I've had a few instances where the screen has just refused to cut on when the car's started, or has turned itself off (gone to black while the car's running) and won't react to the power control for the stereo or any of the climate controls. Key off key on restart usually fixes it.
The aggravating one for me is the time delay between the time you start the car and the time the AC starts cooling. This is Florida, 160-180F interior temps are not unheard of in the hot summer months. Waiting sometimes for 2-3 mins to get cool air to start flowing really sux. Major FAIL on GM's part for buggy software/firmware/hardware/all of the above....
System Manager and your tour guide for the day. 2015 Caprice w/LFX, former NC DPS staff car. Partial hybrid G8/SS/Camaro SS interior mods, SS MyLink radio upgrade, 2016 Camaro V6 rims, GMPP Malibu chrome exhaust tips, otherwise bone stock for now.
I think it is voltage related, because I generally leave a battery tender on it, and go months without triggering.
