Balancer question/help

[impaladakid]

So I got my caprice with equipped with the balancer wobble/squeeky belt mod. In my effort to put it back to stock, I used a AC Delco replacement balancer, and bolt. I ran the balancer back on with an install tool til it would not turn anymore. Put some red thread locker on the threads of the new bolt, and ran it in. Torqued it to 37 ft lbs, and took it an additional 140 degrees. 12 o'clock to 5 o'clock as is mentioned almost everywhere. Now I get almost a supercharger sound from the driver's side accessories. I keep reading about torque numbers around 240 ft lbs. Should I order a new bolt, and use the tool and torque the tool to 240, then do the 37/140 with a new bolt, or just torque the bolt I have now in further? I have done this a couple times the way I described with good results. This is the first one I have had not go well. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Bill

[bstoner]

What does the alignment of the belts look like? Condition of idler and tensioner pulleys and bearings? Condition of the belts? If the balancer is seated on the crank then the bolt doesn't matter. The bolt just keeps the balancer clamped to the crank. I don't think replacing the bolt will help. Also the bolt is a torque to yield and should be installed dry. The dry torque spec allows the correct stretch of the bolt to maintain a proper clamping load. I doubt it will be an issue for you though. I would focus on belt alignment or a bad pulley/bearing.

[SSpeedracer]

Red thread locker in the crank shaft, yikes.

I've always used the ARP brand bolt kit for ease of installation . Like Stoner says, check belt alignment and bearings.

I usually replace pullies, idler, and belt as preventative maintenance just because I'm already there.

Sometimes I can troubleshoot bad bearings by spraying a little oil into it and listening for audible change. (Spray while off)

[impaladakid]

Red thread locker in the crank shaft, yikes.

I've always used the ARP brand bolt kit for ease of installation . Like Stoner says, check belt alignment and bearings.

I usually replace pullies, idler, and belt as preventative maintenance just because I'm already there.

Sometimes I can troubleshoot bad bearings by spraying a little oil into it and listening for audible change. (Spray while off)

Thread locker because I have read a few times that the bolts have worked their way loose. I only put a small drop on at the beginning of the bolt threads. It would be a PIA to get the bolt off when I get around to doing the cam swap if it was covered in it.

[impaladakid]

So I have never in my 55 years heard a idler pulley make the noise this one is doing, but that is where the noise is coming from. I have a new one on order. Thanks for all the answers.

[impaladakid]

Well after a short time yesterday I have two problems. Idler pulley was bad. I replaced that, and some of the noise went away. But with it fixed, I was able to narrow the whine (That starts about 4-5 seconds after the car is started) to the PS pump. I ordered a new AC Delco unit with a new pulley as well.
Thank you for the responses, and help.